Flicken's Blog

Ich bin Flicken, ja! Traditional Islam, food, guns, camping, grammar, Canadianna, Arabic, stuff.

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Egypt: A Quick & Dirty Guide

I've explained the main sites to see in Egypt a couple of times. Now that someone asked me about it again, I decided to commit it to writing.

Disclaimer

I should start by saying this is not a substitute for proper planning or a proper visitor's guide. I mainly go to Egypt to visit family, and stay with family. My site seeing is (relatively) limited and my home town is Alexandria, not the capital, Cairo.

What Egypt Is Not

Egypt is not Europe or North America. It's a poor country. Some places are dirty and disgusting. If you're not careful, you're likely to get sick and ripped off. The people are poor. They will see a dollar sign on your head. Some people will try to rip you off. You need to know how to negotiate well.

In general, Egyptians are friendly and hospitable. I've told you the worst. It really shouldn't be that bad, insha' Allah.

Egypt is not Sinai. Yes, Sinai is a part of Egypt, but so many Jordanians claim to have visited Egypt while going no further than Sinai. Claiming that you've visited Egypt after seeing Sinai is like me claiming I've seen Turkey because I've been to Jordan. (Jordan used to be a part of the Ottoman Empire.)

What to See

Egyptian history can be divided into three main time periods: Pharaonic, Greco-Roman, and Islamic.

Pharaonic
  1. The Pyramids & Sphinx. Location: Giza, close to Cairo.
  2. The Egyptian Museum. Location: Cairo.
  3. Saqqara. Location: close to Cairo.

Greco-Roman
  1. The Greco-Roman Museum in Alexandria. Check to make sure it's open.
  2. The underground catacombs of Kom El-Shouqafa, also in Alexandria.
Islamic
  1. Muhammad Ali's citadel. Location: Cairo.
  2. Al-Azhar Mosque & University, the oldest university in the world. Location: Cairo.
  3. Al-Hussein Mosque. Location: Cairo.
  4. Khan Al-Khalili market. Location: Cairo.
  5. Abu Al-Abbas Mosque. Location: Alexandria.
  6. The Gates of Ancient Cairo. Location: Cairo.
  7. The Citadel of Qaitbay. Location: Alexandria.
  8. Al-Rifa'i Mosque. Location: Cairo.
There are also innumerable scholars and saints buried in Egypt, such as Imam Shafi'i, Zakariyya Al-Ansari, Al-Shaarani, and many prominent Shadhilis.

If you're a big modern history nut, you might want to also see El Alamein, where Germany and the Allies lost thousands of soldiers in battle during WWII.

Natural Beauty

The best time to visit Egypt is in late April or early May, when the weather is nice and the tourists are few. In the summer, Egypt can be rather hot. In Alexandria, the humidity is high and you'll feel the sweat roll off your body even at night time during the peak of the summer. If you're by the seaside, then you'll be fine.

If one of your goals is to enjoy Egypt's remarkable fresh fruit, such as mangoes and guava, then you need to go in late summer or early fall.

Here's what you have to experience while there:
  1. The Mediterranean Sea. Best seen in Alexandria. Catch a boat ride from the Montazah, King Farouq's former palace. While you're by the corniche, make sure to ride in a horse-drawn carriage. If you have time, go fishing. You can also check out Mersa Matruh, towards the Libyan border, where you can find some secluded beaches.
  2. The Red Sea. It offers great fishing and snorkeling. That's what I hear, anyway. I've never been there on the Egyptian side. (I've only been to the Red Sea via Aqaba, Jordan.)
  3. The Nile, of course. Catch a boat ride in Cairo. If you're adventurous, you may want to catch an extended ride down south into Upper Egypt. Tread with caution.
Food

I really go to Egypt to connect with my inner stomach. I love (most) Egyptian food. I don't have an eating problem: I eat, I get sick, I take medicine; no problem! Don't drink the tap water or anything that's made with tap water (e.g. juice) unless it's been boiled; e.g. tea or coffee.

Here are things you must eat or drink:
  1. Mangoes. zOMG, Egyptian mangoes are awesome. I don't know if they're very good earlier than August, though.
  2. Guava. These ripen even later than mangoes.
  3. Pastirma: fried with eggs or alone, in sandwiches.
  4. In general, most Egyptian meat and dairy is very good. Try water buffalo (gamoosa) steak.
  5. Egyptians do poultry very well. Treat yourself to some duck and stuffed pigeons.
  6. Rabbits in mulukhiyah. If you can't get it with rabbits, eat mulukhiyah (e.g. with chicken) anyways.
  7. Fresh juice, at the stands. Make sure they make it with bottled water. You should also drink some of the ultra-refreshing sugarcane juice. If you get it in a bag and take it to your hotel, it will go brown if you don't drink it very soon afterwards. If you drink from their cups, you risk getting sick. (One of my worst illnesses to date was after I drank sugarcane juice from an improperly-washed glass in Amman; I had a high fever for one solid week.) Take your own portable mug and have them fill it for you. Hey, they already know you're a foreigner and are ripping you off anyways, so you might as well be sanitary about it.
  8. Gateau. Egyptian gateau rocks. You want to make sure the shop you go into is air-conditioned. If it isn't, they're probably not using fresh dairy cream.
  9. Other good Egyptian sweest include: baklawa and kunafa. Make sure to get it from a high quality place that uses real dairy butter and crunchy, freshly roasted nuts.
  10. Although typically a poor man's food, kushari is delicious and satisfying nonetheless.
  11. Seafood. You can buy zillions of types of fresh fish and shellfish and have them cooked for you on the spot in the better restaurants.
  12. If you're not used to Middle-Eastern coffee, you might find Turkish coffee a nice treat. Make sure not to try to drink the sludge at the bottom.
  13. Safe bets in all Middle Eastern countries include: grilled kabobs and kufta, shawerma, felafel, and hummus. The last two are good for vegetarians and those on a budget.
(Note how I've written more about food than any other topic.)

Check the comments section of this post for updates.

12 Comments:

  • At 11:02 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

    bro great list next time, i go to Egypt u have to be with me. what about kasab el sukar?

     
  • At 11:12 PM , Blogger Flicken said...

    I'm hoping to go this summer but I'm not sure if it'll work out.

    BTW, kasab el sukar is "sugarcane", so it's covered. I would never forget about that. :)

     
  • At 4:44 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

    Thanks, Moustafa! Much appreciated. We're planning on being there in early June, so we'll miss your prime time suggestion, but hopefully still beat most of the tourists and the really hot weather. We're dealing with 38 to 40 degrees C right now and we seem to be acclimatizing well, if that's actually possible.

    Chris

     
  • At 5:24 AM , Blogger Flicken said...

    Chris: post pix!

     
  • At 7:20 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

    You forgot to mention the lovely North Coast shoreline "Alsahil alshamaly" such as Sidi Kreir, Marina etc. Also, what about Marsa Matrouh? There's something rustic about Matrouh. Drive further up the coast of Matrouh and experience "3agiba", truly breath taking. Cleopatra's baths are also worth seeing. As for your comment about dirty and old places, well those places exist in every country. When was the last time you checked out Vancouver's downtown east side? I might have some pics of Matrouh for you if you want to see 3agiba.

     
  • At 9:24 AM , Blogger Flicken said...

    Thanks for your comment. I mentioned Matrouh under the Mediterranean.

    I agree that the bad areas of Egypt are not as bad as the bad parts of North America in the sense that you usually don't feel like you could get killed in Egypt. Memories of East Van and the South Orange Blossom Trail (Orlando) come to mind.

     
  • At 6:47 PM , Blogger M. du Tapis said...

    Assalaamu alaykum,

    Just found this blog and wow! Very informative :) JazakAllah Khayr! I've been wanting to visit insha'Allah, so this will come in handy :)

     
  • At 10:17 AM , Blogger Flicken said...

    Wa alaikum assalam.

    Glad you like it. You might want to subscribe to the RSS feed, as I don't update the blog that frequently.

     
  • At 12:45 PM , Blogger UmmFarouq said...

    Nice! I write about food more than anything else, too. I wonder why that is. No, I know why that is.

     
  • At 9:41 PM , Blogger Flicken said...

    When it comes to food, you're the person I know will have the official answer on whether it's available in Jordan and, if yes, where to find it.

     
  • At 4:27 PM , Anonymous janell said...

    What is the drink made of sugarcane called? It's slightly white/looks like watery milk. Served cold.

     
  • At 9:29 PM , Blogger Flicken said...

    The sugarcane juice is called 'aseer qasab (or asab). If the sugarcane is fresh, it should be pale green.

     

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